1.Tipp Antenne mit Knick Funktion:

Bildmontage
Gerade und abgeknickte Variante.

Um nicht zu oft neue Antennenröhrchen zu verschwenden kann man schnell ein wenig basteln und das Problem beseitigen. Es wird ein Antennenrohr benötigt, das in zwei Teile zerschnitten wird. Eine Hälfte muss an der Emfängerbox wie gewohnt befestigt werden, darf aber nicht aus der Karosserie herausragen, da hier später ein fester Spritschlauch als Verbindung zwischen den beiden Hälften dient. Daher erklärt sich schon die weitere Vorgehensweise. Ein etwa 4 cm langes Stück festen Spritschlauch über das erste Stück des Antennenröhrchen und das andere Teil dann nachstecken - dabei aber immer wieder überprüfen wie zuverlässig die Antenne wegknickt - und das Antennenkabel durchziehen; Kappe drauf und fertig. Nun kann man sich wieder wie gewohnt auf’s Dach legen ohne gleich die Antenne abzureißen.

2.Tipp Karosserie-Splinte:

Praktisch
Nun ist es einfacher den Splint heraus zuziehen und man findet ihn viel schneller wieder.

Benötigt wird natürlich der Splint. Dieser kann nach Belieben vorher gekrümmt werden. Nun nimmt man sich einen Kabelbinder, der durch ein circa 3cm langes Spritschlauch Stück passt. Der Splint wird dann hinterher auf den Kabelbinder aufgezogen. Eine weiteres Spirtschlauch Stück folgt und der Kabelbinder kann zugezogen werden. Ich hatte hier wie zu sehen nur transparente Spritschläuche zur Verfügung, aber farbige machen sich dann bestimmt viel besser.

3.Tipp Crawler Parcours:

Schöne und einfache Anleitung zum Bau eines Crawler Parcours erhaltet ihr auf der Seite von AxialRacing.

Welches Material für den Bau benötigt wird, ist auf der Seite aufgelistet.

Natürlich sind der eigenen Kreativität kaum Grenzen gesetzt. Daher würde ich mich über Zusendungen eurer Bilder sehr freuen!

Bildquelle & weitere Information:AxialRacing.com

4.Racing Savage Turorial by HPI-Racing:

The first several steps involve removing the engine and installing a few things on it, and changing out the spur gear.

Installing the heavy duty spur gear
Every HPI spur gear comes with a fresh new slipper pad, before attaching it use some motor cleaner spray and a rag to clean any oils off the new spur - this lets the slipper pad glue grip the metal surface as much as possible. Before removing the old spur gear, measure the length of the slipper spring and use the HPI cross wrench to secure the locknut in position, pushing the spring down until it matches the previous spring length.

Attaching the one-piece engine mount
Use a good-quality hex wrench to securely attach the engine to the new one-piece engine mount. You shouldn’t need a ball wrench, a normal straight hex wrench will work fine. If you’re going to replace the engine’s heatsink head, now is the best time to do so.

Installing the new tuned pipe
Cut off the nylon strap holding the stock tuned pipe, and slip in the new aluminium tuned pipe. Get a good grip on the new strap by using a pair of pliers to pull as tightly as possible. The strap won’t be the only thing holding the pipe in place, but you don’t want the silicone connector to get loose!

Attaching the flywheel properly
Use large adjustable-grip pliers to hold the flywheel in place, and remove the stock clutch bell. Replace with the new heavy duty clutch bell and tighten the screw down. Use some of the blue thread lock from the Nubs UV Joint set to make sure the clutchbell screw doesn’t come loose. If you wanted to replace the clutch shoes with our #87196 Aluminium Clutch Shoes or the #86391 Heavy Duty Aluminium Clutch Shoes, now’s the time to do it!

Finished with the engine!
There you go, the finished engine set up! Fit it back in place and put the engine mount screws in a bit, but don’t tighten them down all the way yet. Make sure you’re using the threadlock again.

Get the right gear mesh
Before tightening everything down, get a strip of scrap paper and fit it in between the clutch bell and spur gear. Shift the engine mount close to the spur gear and tighten a couple of the screws down at a time while making sure the paper stays in place and the gear teeth line up as much as possible. When you’ve tightened the mount screws as much as possible, pull the paper out, hold the spur gear in place and lightly rotate the clutch bell to feel the amount of free space there is before the teeth touch. There should be 1-2mm of movement either way, but as little as possible to make sure the gear mesh is correct for efficient running.

Install the Battery Level Indicator
Adding the receiver battery takes a few seconds, and installing the Battery Level Indicator is nearly as quick. A couple of screws is all it takes to attach the LED screen, then swap out the battery connectors as directed and you’re all set.

Now we’ll removed the existing suspension parts and get to work swapping in the new racing suspension set!

Removing the plastic suspension parts
To get the suspension kit installed, the first thing to do is remove the front and rear uprights and knuckles, the upper links and the rear knuckle links. Use a large hex wrench to carefully get any stubborn ball bearings out of the knuckles: push one side gently, then the other side until the bearing comes out. Make sure to push the inner metal edge, not the black rubber part.

There we are, your Savage is stripped down and ready for some alloy action!

Everything ready to assemble
There are all the parts waiting to get fitted. Make sure you have a sharp hobby knife or rotary tool ready for the next part, and read through the instructions first before starting. Some installation steps are different between the Savage and Savage X, so make sure you know what’s coming next when you’re assembling everything.

Trimming the plastic
The only parts you’ll need to trim away on your truck are the areas shown here. Remember that you need to do the same thing front and rear. These parts are clearly shown in the assembly instructions also.

Installing the bearings
Carefully push in the knuckle bearings - if you have to push them in, use a gentle amount of force and push only on the inner metal edge, not the black rubber part.

Assemble the universal dogbones
Because we’re installing the Nubz conversion set at the same time, it’s best to assemble the universal dogbones at this point. Notice that the cross pins have carefully ground flat spots where the set screw fits. Use a small amount of threadlocking compound on the set screw, and make sure the screw fits against the flat spot of the cross pin (look carefully at the picture!).

Installing the hinge pins
Nearly there! Push the hinge pins in carefully and use your pliers to gently push the e-clips into place.

Rear end hinge pins
At the rear end, the assembly is a little simpler than at the front, except you have the adjustable wheelbase spacers to look out for. A longer wheelbase gives you extra stability on large tracks but it will take more time to turn into a corner, while a shorter wheelbase makes the truck turn in a bit faster at the expense of high-speed stability.

Bolt on the Big Bore bad boys!
And now we get to the Big Bore shocks! They’re fully assembled and ready to go right out of the package, all you have to do is bolt them on.

Spacing out the shock ends
Here’s where you need those 20mm M3 screws and washers. Because the Big Bore shocks are thicker than the standard shocks and the turnbuckle upper links are also quick thick, if you mount them in the standard position the springs will rub against the upper links and eventually come off the lower spring mount on the shock. To solve this, use a long screw (the Z547 M3×20mm cap head screws are ideal for this) and a washer (Z224 M3×8 washer) to hold the lower shock end in place. The steel screw will resist bending, and the length of the screw allows it to go all the way to the inner shock support on the arm, giving the shock as much support as possible. You can see how much room this simple mod gives the shock spring and upper link!

99% done…
There we are, nearly complete! Just need to add the wheels…

Ready to go!
With the Nubs securely bolted on, this Savage X 4.6 is ready to RACE! Now you just need to fit on a sleek racing bodyshell like the #7196 Ford F-150 or #7194 Nitro GT-2, or go for a quick and easy pre-painted Nitro GT-1 design like the #7752 black/metallic grey/metallic smoke, #7754 metallic grey/silver/metallic blue or #7753 metallic grey/black/red designs!

Get out there and tear it up! Remember that there are still more parts you can add to the Savage to tune it for any race track you might find. Change the gearing, lighten it up with titanium gear shafts, add the 3-speed transmission, choose different tyres, and beef it up further with stronger outdrives - the options are almost endless!

We hope you’ve enjoyed this upgrade tutorial. If you want to order the parts used here, just contact your local model shop and ask them to order the HPI part numbers listed at the beginning.

Quelle & weitere Information:HPI Europe Tutorials